Thursday, March 27, 2008

waking up on the marshes of El Rocio

What i loooooooooooooovvvvveeed about Spain was watching the sunrise and "waking up" with the marsh. Coto Donana is so birdy, and to feel the pulse of life here is an experience of a lifetime. Loads of cattle egrets, the lone squacco heron(LUV that name) looked on each am from the very same post, like an old man not ready to get out of bed ... the Cetti's warbler announcing the dawn with explosive singing - anything but timid - quite the opposite of the penduline tit - that avoided being seen or heard, which made a glimpse of it all the more precious. Amaiiiiiii, don't you LOVE that sunset? I DID die and go to heaven when i saw it .... and i've never come back to life since, thankfully.


The town of El Rocio, steeped in religious tradition, rests adjacent to the spectacular marshes of El Rocio, where we discovered the richness of bird life - with spotted crake, holy ibis, and so many other awesome finds - amidst an abundance of sweet songsters - every day was a symphony just waiting to be savored.


... and what have we here? Three macho Spaanse caballeros drinking a little champagne and enjoying being in the center of the universe. Makes you wonder how commonplace is this behavior ... and does it influence their success in life? Are men that are MORE bold .... MORE successful at spreading their genes?


During the weekends ... there were horse, horses, horses everywhere. The Spanish love their horses and use them as a means of getting to town and back. The sandy roads must feel better on their hoofs. But I can only imagine how hard the HOT, DRY summers are on these beautiful equines ... how many of them will perish from the stress?


Seville was beautiful, especially because we had spectacular views of LITTLE KESTRELS that nested in the monstrosity of the cathedral. Looked more like a city to me, with layers upon layers of construction that must've taken eons to design and build. Couldn't tell where it began and where it stopped -was breathtaking, but overbearing in my opinion.


First, we explored Coto Donana safari-style, which gave great views of the pristine coastline, expansive dunes and marsh complexes. Saw more birds than expected this way (due to patient driver that stopped for birds more often than expected), with Audouin's gull and glossy ibis being new lifers for me. Wild boar and deer were quite abundant, which was another happy surprise.


A pit stop during the safari tour to search for Spanish Imperial Eagle! No doubt an impressive sight, but most of us were not to behold it during this trip in spite of multiple attempts to find them. A few lucky ones did catch a glimpse at Acebuche! But we did see 150 species of birds during our 8 days of birding in southwestern Spain. And I got 16 new WP birds (West Palearctic) ... Audouin's gull, Goshawk, Glossy Ibis, Pallid Swift, Squacco Heron, Penduline Tit, Spotted Crake, Black-crowned Night Heron, Spanish Sparrow, Black-winged Kite, Red-knobbed Coot, Little Bittern, Holy Ibis, Dartford Warbler, Black-eared Wheatear, and Common Scoter.


Acebron gave great views of virgin cork forest, which reminded me so much of the gnarly live oak forests of the southeastern United States, and for good reason -- CORK trees are in the same genus - QUERCUS!!!!! Felt at home on the sinuous trails, and also watching the black-crowned night herons on the marshes, but without the ALLIGATORS that you'd see in Florida.


Experienced the most challenging roads between Villamanrique and the visitors center at Jose Antonio Valverde - there were humongous potholes! And happy to say we navigated them smoothly! Had splendid views of black-winged kites hovering in the air, plus kestrels mating (yee-ha!), Spanish sparrow, and an albino corn bunting:)


Gilbert exemplified our mantra for the week: Eat, Pray, BIRD! Gil IS the fanatical type of birder that literally lives, breathes, "eats" birds 24-7. With him around, there's little time for R&R, but then in a place like Coto Donana, who can "rest & relax" when there's so much to SEE!


... enjoying the sun after a visit to la Huelva to see replicas of the vessels that Christopher Columbus used to discover the New World - the Nina, the Pinta and the Santa Maria.

... enjoying a few drinks and live music in Seville

... Jos and Josette took the liberty to enjoy the music more than the rest of us, but maybe we enjoyed watching them even more.

... at Ribetehelos, we had excellent views of the Dartford warbler, a precious little bird. What a great trip this was, not just for the birds, but also for the comraderie and the relationships forged during this adventure ... may they last a lifetime.

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

The beautiful birds of Coto Donana


the majestic Blauwe ekster, or Iberian wagtail

Distelvink, or Goldfinch - the name doesn't do justice to its splendid colors

Purpurkoet, or Purple swamp-hen - check out those gorgeous red legs

Zwarte ibis, or Glossy Ibis - winner of the most spectacular plummage contest!

Not another Ooievaar!!!! Largest nesting colony of White storks in Europe found here.

photos courtesy of Rene Conings

... and the amazing beetles






photos courtesy of Rene Conings

... and the beautiful green things





photos courtesy of Esther Buysmans

Friday, March 07, 2008

off again ... to Coto Donana

This time tomorrow I'll be sleeping a stone's throw away from one of Europe's premier birding destinations ... and the only way this is possible is because 15 years ago I made without a doubt the best decision in my life to marry this cute Dutchman named Stijn.

I don't write enough about him, and his more-than-positive attributes -- he deserves a dissertation! That he will let me walk out the door tomorrow, knowing that our washing machine is broken, and one of our kids is sick, and having to deal with it ALL ON HIS OWN! (no nannies, omas to help out) speaks volumes about his character and resolve ...

i LOVE you Stijn!

I'll bring you the yummiest Spanish cheese ...

see you in a week:)

Thursday, March 06, 2008

TWO


Just the two of us - just Laura and myself - met for 2 full days (+3 part time) of fun and exploring in and around Decatur, GA (that's USA) - which has a small-town atmosphere and a dreaminess about it that suited us just fine.

Part of that explore involved a visit to the High Museum in Atlanta for an exhibit on the women of Alfred (or Albert, i'm so bad w names!) Stieglitz, with Georgia O'Keefe being highlighted. Was so interesting and loads of fun, but an arctic blast froze us to the bone!

Every night was a culinary adventure, and this night at TWO Urban Licks in Midtown brought the tastiest seared tuna and pistachio ice cream cookie dessert - yumm for the tumm

The bevies were worth exploring too -- and this Duck Rabbit brew at the Java Monkey was mind-expanding -- sipped as we leafed through a field guide, recounting tales of Laura's bird sightings in the jungles of Belize!

This wall-size painting (by artist Tom ???? so bad w names again) in TWO was so so so cool, and for me at least, screamed of the opportunities just waiting for the taking. All those birds just waiting to be seen ...

So much beauty in this life ... if only we make the time, and are fortunate enough to experience it.

yogakids!


... we learned


... we laughed


... we played


... we made friends


... we connected

where does the time go ...

It's been a whirlwind of activity in our little neck of the woods this past month ...

Stijn's had work trips to India, US, UK -- w upcoming trip to China just around the corner

Family travelled to Switzerland to visit Oma and Opa, which was SUPER fun!

Courtenay spent a week in Atlanta, GA w best-friend Laura and for yogakids training, which was SUPER DUPER fun:)

Laura journeyed to Belize for first-ever press trip and saw dancing manakins!

My Dad's been sailing for 8 weeks in the Caribbean, and my Mom will be meeting him in Grenada, but not without her binoculars:)

Saw exhibits on Okeefe (Atl) and daVinci (Brussels) - both superb - but how opposite can you get?

Courtenay's teaching yoga to kids!!!

Courtenay's teaching yoga to kids!!!

can you tell i'm just a little excited?

Courtenay's teaching yoga to kids!!!

winter break in Switzerland